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Winter snow brings a fresh crop of sporting possibilities, and ski resorts around the United States are filling up with downhill enthusiasts. To get out of line and into the great wide open, we suggest strapping on the skinny skis and hitting up these five places for cross-country skiing in a more serene environment.
As Mother Nature begins her yearly dance with Old Man Winter, the siren song of skis swishing over fresh powder grows ever stronger. From coast to coast, a variety of snow-covered resorts, forested mountainsides, and even national parks offer challenging cross-country trails to test your Nordic mettle.
Why let gravity do all of the work? Wax your skinny skis, bundle up in your warmest duds, and get out and breathe some of that crisp winter air on a cross-country getaway. Here are our top five places for cross-country skiing in the United States.
Lone Mountain Ranch, Big Sky, Montana
Near the slopes at Big Sky Resort, Lone Mountain Ranch has nearly 50 miles of cross-country trails with a staggering 2,200 feet of vertical drop—which is more than you’ll see at many downhill ski areas. Weeklong all-inclusive stays usually start around $2,000 per adult and one-night packages can include a gourmet, sleigh ride dinner. The cabins, each with their own distinct personality and rustic style, are nestled along North Fork Creek. Non-overnight guests are also welcome to ski the trails.
For those who like mixing their Nordic excursions with a few days of downhill skiing or snowboarding, neighboring Big Sky is one of the most revered resorts in the Rocky Mountains. Plus, the ranch’s proximity to the western entrance of Yellowstone National Park makes a snow-coach tour a doable and highly recommended day trip. Shrouded in snow and free of crowds, Yellowstone offers an entirely different experience in wintertime.
Devil’s Thumb Ranch, Tabernash, Colorado
Located in the Fraser Valley near Winter Park Resort, the 5,000-acre Devil’s Thumb Ranch in Colorado is so named for the unmistakable thumb-like rock formation jutting out of the mountains of the Continental Divide, framing the resort.
Open since 1938, the ranch has skiing for all skill levels with more than 60 miles of groomed trails unspooling throughout the scenic Ranch Creek Valley. The striking lodge has several new green features, including beetle-kill wood (lodgepole pine killed by beetle infestation and now repurposed), geothermal heating, and a huge fireplace made of rockslide debris.
Less expensive lodging can be found at the self-catering Bunkhouse down the road, while the freestanding ranch cabins offer privacy and luxury. Dining is also superb. Choose from the refined atmosphere of the Ranch Creek Restaurant or Heck’s, the more casual bar and grill named for its hexagonal shape and modeled after the storied Timberline Lodge at the base of Mount Hood in Oregon.
Trapp Family Lodge, Stowe, Vermont
The celebrated von Trapp family of “The Sound of Music” fame is also known for having one of the top ski lodges in New England. After fleeing the Nazi regime in Austria in the 1940s, the family moved to the Stowe area and began welcoming guests to their lodge in 1950.
The luxurious Austrian-styled lodge overlooks the quaint town on a beautifully forested 2,500-acre property with nearly 100 miles of cross-country trails (37 miles of groomed routes plus 62 more miles in the backcountry).
A three-mile trek from the main lodge is the Slayton Pasture Cabin, just the place to warm up with a cup of soup and a seat by the fireplace before continuing on the trails. And at the end of the day, it’s hard to imagine a better place for rest and relaxation than the slick guestrooms and award-winning dining room.
Royal Gorge Cross Country Resort, Soda Springs, California
Near Lake Tahoe, Royal Gorge is the largest cross-country resort in the United States in terms of sheer size, with more than 124 miles of trails on a whopping 6,000 acres, plus a pair of old surface lifts. Several of the trails are also good for snowshoers.
Set at the scenic foot of Devil’s Peak, the area is (as of 2012) operated by the nearby Sugar Bowl Resort, a longstanding Tahoe downhill ski area. The new owners have announced plans for numerous improvements, including a pair of beginners’ trails between Sugar Bowl and Royal Gorge. An “interconnect trail” currently joins the two areas, though it’s not very beginner-friendly. Rentals, lessons, and dining are at Summit Station.
Active Backwoods Retreat, Ironwood, Michigan
Reliably snowy Ironwood is one of the true cross-country meccas of the Midwest, and Active Backwoods Retreat is the best place to experience this winter wonderland.
With 1,100 acres of relatively gentle terrain in the Montreal River Valley, the resort has about 25 miles of trails for every skill level, as well as six miles of dedicated snowshoe trails. You can even bring Fido along on your winter getaway, as the retreat has nearly three miles of dog-friendly trails for skijoring—that’s skiing with a canine-powered assist.
Several cabins at the resort are available for overnight guests (though they’re not dog-friendly), and a number of lodging options are in Ironwood and the vicinity.
Cross-country skiing can be a fun and challenging alternative to downhill skiing. This winter, try out some cross-country skiing in the United States, and visit one of these great destinations.
